=VG= SemlerPDX

This is a known issue that we have not been able to resolve yet (mostly because I'm the only one really doing it and I'm out of ideas). Zadra has been invaluable in helping pin down the issue, but to no success. He doesn't even read English, so our communication is always passive and not a lot gets accomplished fast. I feel like I'm spinning plates sometimes..... I used to have several technical people helping manage the difficult technical aspects of various servers at VG, and now it is pretty much down to me. I remember back when I didn't know anything technical and Savage/Poffadder/Solar taught me a little and encouraged me to learn more. Now, here I am. Thank God for Kav and Stark being so helpful and getting through a lot of training this year managing the PR Server.... but still, I'm alone in the dark here and not sure how to fix the Arma 3 server(s)... One possible work around (if I understand Zadra correctly) is to restart it 3 times.... apparently, the third time will be stable(?) So sorry for the technical issues, I hate when things fall into disrepair. If you know anyone in our group with technical know-how who'd be willing to help ol' SemlerPDX out, tell them to msg me.

I bought a Logitech G933 wireless headset last year and I'd like to make my TrackIR TrackClip Pro into a wireless unit as well. I need to be able to remove it from the G933 when not in use, TrackClip Pro's break if you look at them too hard, so taking it off is a primary requirement. I'll want to be able to recharge it with the same cord the G933 uses, too. I'm not a pro at this stuff, so any thing that works well and doesn't cost too much will be just fine with me. I know that if I ramp up the voltage from one single 3.7V battery, I can achieve 5V @ 1A for the 3 LED's on the TrackClip, and should retain a duration of more than 4 hours (overly hopeful estimate). I'll need to do some testing, if I have to, I'll use the second 3.7V battery like in the image here just for longer time between charges. My DIY TrackIR "Wireless Rechargeable" Track Clip Pro mod *parts list with links at bottom The initial goals I had once I began were: Tiny form-factor, less than 5cm long, less than 2.5cm wide & tall Can power TrackClip for between 4-8 hours continuously Tiny on-off slider switch Rechargeable via micro-A USB female plugin Output to TrackClip via USB (type A) female outlet plug (as in picture above) Encased in semi-rigid form like shrink wrap, adapted plastic case, or custom 3D printed plastic case Velcro strap to easily mount on headphones Total cost for one single powerpack unit less than $10 USD Soldering leads to the TP4056 (03962A) Charging Board with Protection. This is the brains of this unit, and will make sure the rechargeable 3.7V battery will not discharge past 2.5V and will not recharge over 4.2V. It acts as the buffer between the battery and the voltage booster. Here is the 03962A Charging Board and battery holder wired to the MT3608 DC to DC Step Up Boost Converter. I did this for initial testing and to set the trim-pot (blue square box with round brass peg) on the boost converter from the 18V setting it shipped with to the 5V that I need. It will take the 3.7 Volt battery and step up its voltage to something usable by the TrackClip Pro without the need for a second battery. Trying to keep the size small, mounting the breakout boards close together makes it about the size of a stick of gum, plus the AAA sized battery. I put a USB female plug in for size reference along with the Bic lighter. The 10440 is a 3.7 Volt Lithium Ion rechargeable battery in a AAA size. According to a features sheet on a batteries info website, "Lighter weight and higher energy density than any other rechargeable battery". I'll be ramping up it's voltage to a full 5V. I used a portion of shrink wrap tubing around the 03962A Charging Board on the left, and MT3608 Boost Converter on the right is hot glued to the battery holder and to the 03962A in the middle. Through the shrink wrap I cut holes for the LED indicator lights on the charging board. The tiny switch has a pin through the breakout board and is soldered in place, with another pin bent and wrapped around the edge of the board, and soldered to it's wire (I didn't have red shrink wrap, but the thicker top right wire is the load line, and is red under there). Even with all of that, I just don't trust tiny switches to stay in place and solder is not structural, so it got a healthy dose from the hot glue gun. As you can see, I've used the highly skilled technique known as "just glob it on". I've cut the cord on the Track Clip Pro, spliced the wires to the Boost Converter, and used shrink wrap tubing to contain the entire unit. I've left a bit of the wire jacket hanging below the wires and hot glued in place, and then shrink wrapped under a little tension. This causes a slight bend in the wire, shown in these pics and it helps the unit bend the newly magnetic end inwards to the screw under this panel. A NetDot micro-USB magnetic adapter makes connecting a charging cable easy, and gives one end of my battery pack a strong magnet to work with. The NetDot magnetic charging adapter is so strong it is very well stuck to the screw on the corner of the G933 headset under the panel. It doesn't come off and swing around when I move my head around, and that's all that really matters to me. Function before looks. It's finally finished and working great! I expect it will last for a few years before I'll want to carve off the outer shrink wrap and replace the 10440 battery, and seal it back up with a new shrink wrap tube (and some new cut-outs for the switch and lights). Here's a cost breakdown: NetDot Magnetic Bi-Directional microUSB Plug Adapters https://www.amazon.com/NetDot-Generation-Magnetic-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B076QC2RQT/ $4 (per male/female adapter pair) TP4056 (03962A) Charging Board with Protection MT3608 DC to DC Step Up Boost Converter (in a pack with 3 of each board, plus 5 battery holders) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NHHCNNQ $1.00 per breakout board The battery holder I used was actually the AAA type: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C2XT5C5 $0.58 (one) 3.7V 10440 AAA Lithium Ion Rechargeable Battery (x4 @11.69 - w/Charger $19.09)*(note: these are NOT AAA batteries! They must be charged with a special charger, and shouldn't be used for normal AAA battery powered devices!) https://www.amazon.com/10440-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery-350mah/dp/B010ABNW5S/ (or) https://www.amazon.com/10440-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B06X9TZ1CG/ $2.92 / battery Tiny switch with nice long legs (they come in a pack of a hundred for six bucks): https://www.amazon.com/Cylewet-Vertical-Switch-Arduino-CYT1016/dp/B01N7NCW8N/ $0.06 (one) (Not taking into account things like hot glue sticks, solder, tape, or shrink wrap tubing segments used because they cost less than a few pennies) Total: $9.56 (USD) _________________________________ Looking back to the start, I've met my goals or caused some to become redundant (like velcro) and the cost for this single battery unit was less than $10, though I do have enough parts to make 2 more, I'm happy to put those in my Arduino projects bins and eat the costs there. This thing cost me about ten bucks, it works well, and I also have another $26 in extra parts (NetDot's and 3.7V batteries, battery holders, charging and boost breakout boards...). I learned a bit about larger shrink wrap tubing, it only shrinks so far. And I think it was all worth it. Had a flight earlier, with 8 minutes to taxi, I just got up out of my PC chair from a hot pit, and walked over to the fridge to get a soda all without taking off my headset or TrackClip Pro, strolling around while listening in to the Tower and waiting for my clearance to taxi. It was a feeling of true freedom! If anyone has any questions on this mod, I'd be happy to help if I can. See you at Angels 20!

Thanks for the report! It was crashed to the desktop. I've restarted to the last autosave file. If it's greatly messed up the time of day for our regular pilots, let us know and we can adjust the clock.

I've read this like twenty times since you posted (I think it's finally sinking in), figured I'd comment and say thanks! A lot of new stuff in BMS 4.34 - this helps a lot! Cheers!

I agree - when they changed up the radios and radio menus for 4.34, I started by taking pics of all of them (the bottom graphic) just to wrap my head around the changes. Then I built this voice control profile so I didn't have to memorize anything (except those 5 "add/remove hoomans" commands). To use this profile myself, I have that bottom image on my tablet or phone just as an image reference so I can see "what" I can ask of AWACS or other contacts, in case something is new. I certainly don't know everything by memory myself, but I also don't find that I use everything in every flight. I definitely use the AWACS and ATC stuff a lot, and the ATC has really changed! A little learning is half the fun of a sim, right? haha! I'm relying heavily on Jeffu's blog post here to figure out these new features in Falcon BMS 4.34:

Wow! Great video! (guy needs to turn up the volume on the microphone that is embedded in the controls ... I can barely hear what buttons he is pushing... j/k )

Thank you very much Kav!!

Great idea, thanks Keed!

Thank you Cpthawk!!!

I'm down for $20 -- thanks for taking care of this shit! Note to everyone: VETERANS-GAMING is fortunate enough to have a few very generous alumni members who take care of many of VG's bills behind the scenes, and this sometimes leads the rest of us to assume that nothing costs much and everything is being taken care of, but truly we rely on every member to help out if able because we can't expect those generous members to handle everything. Dig deep, any little bit helps! Thank you! Long live VG!

Ooh - then it is a problem. Feel free to report to Stark58 if there is an unplayable broken map *(note the layer) that should be removed from rotation. No sense having to load and then skip a map and waste your time, just let us know.

Interesting things to note, but definitely not worthy of fixing just for coop, if it is unintentional after all. A thing that discourages people from messing around in an uncappable enemy main? Can we get some more of that please?

That's gonna change the SOP for sure...

Thanks man! Bad luck on the friendly fire. BMS isn't perfect, then again, a review of the ACMI if you have it might shed some light on what went down. I'll catch you online sometime and get in a flight, it's been awhile. I'm gonna do my "retraining" and getting familiar with BMS again in 4.33 just until the YAME64 update comes out for BMS 4.34 -- I never knew how much I relied on just one external monitor for my MFD's until I tried an Instant Action today without it. I'll be around and hang out, and can even host a flight (in 4.33) so hopefully people who fly BMS still have old version(s) installed. I have 3 versions of BMS all working great, 4.32 -- 4.33.5 -- and 4.34.0 now. I had some pretty sweet frame rates near a 100FPS, too, so if it's that high in Instant Action, I hope it remains pretty high in a busy campaign online.

I'm just getting 4.34 installed, and trying to get my Helios working again. A monitor got changed, and I kinda forgot how to config this so I have to relearn it. Side topic: Can we try to use the ZULU Clock on the front page instead of regional specifics like BST? (which is UTC/ZULU +1) The ZULU Clock on the home page is UTC and easy to get your own conversion for you (coincidentally, I see 20:00:17 right now and my Windows PC clock says 13:00, an easy 7 hour difference). If I wanted to say I'm going to be available to fly at around 19:00 here, I just add 7 to that and say to everyone in a post: "I'll be flying online at 02:00 ZULU if anyone would like to join" I added that ZULU Clock so we can more easily share our time without anyone worrying about international datelines, like for our Aussie friends and such, as it's just a matter of what that ZULU clock says and what your own watch or clock says, and the difference. When we get to dates far in the future, and international dateline issues arise, I've rigged our Calendar to display dates in our own personal time zone(s), so anyone looking at it will see the actual date and time the event will happen for them.

I updated the page (and then updated the post above this one because my update broke that link ) Cheers!

Yes.

So that did work? You can just use the key from the box version to activate it on Steam?

^What he said. Basically, it has a narrow FOV (field of view), so if the target gets out of that, and then back on center, that 5 seconds is gonna start over, isn't it? Account for that, and like Stark said "lead time" and you'll probably have more success in any game with simple AA weapons.

Best wishes and good luck to you!