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A little advice for my new PC!

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On 10/3/2020 at 12:46 PM, Connorsponner01 said:

@=VG= SemlerPDX So you suggested 3600hz which I am looking for as well as at CL16, but do i look for Ram speed or SPD Speed

RAM Speed at 3600

SPD Speed at 2133
*base speed for DDR4

First challenge is knowing which is different/better than another in those dry and dull lists.... again, research pays off - wealth of knowledge on YT, and elsewhere.  I went with G.Skill brand because they were rather popular with the X570 chipset on the MoBo I was getting, getting some good configurations and stable overclocking - and I found a set that was affordable for the speed with decent heat spreaders.   Physical size was not a concern for me due to my cooler choice, but that should be noted - some can be too tall for some CPU cooler choices.

You should be going back and forth from that list to google with the product code -- just literally paste a product code into google and press enter... check details from the company site, prices from Newegg, Amazon, etc., and any info if desired from YouTube, etc.  Can even refine search once you get the exact name of the RAM, just be sure whatever info you land on is specifically referring to that product code version of that name of that RAM.

from this random example I grabbed without any thought -- paste the part of this:

CORSAIR	CMD32GX4M2B3000C15 ver5.39	2133MHz	3000MHz	3000 MHz	SK hynix	1.35v	DUAL	16GB	√ | √ |
CORSAIR	CMD32GX4M2C3200C16 ver5.39	2133MHz	3200MHz	3200 MHz	SK hynix	1.35v	DUAL	16GB	√ | √ |

grabbing just this:

CMD32GX4M2C3200C16 ver5.39

and google it.... you'll get lots of info and links.  Again, always make sure that where you land is actually about this model number and keep double checking as you go, the internets be tricky like that ;)

In the examples above, the top choice is a CL15 kit... the lower choice is a CL16 kit.... you can spot this in the model number, right at the end... use that as your designator for finding what you want. 

The 2133MHz dictates that these are DDR4 RAM, and the 3200MHz is it's rated speed (through XMP/overclocking) which is what we want. (3600MHz for you, of course)

The "SK hynix" is the brand of chips that comprise the memory.  Some overclockers have their preferences for the "SK hynix" chips on certain RAM brands/sticks, or the Samsung "B die" chips, as opposed to the Micron, or other offerings, so that is a thing but likely NOT something you should focus on.  All will be "DUAL" and the GB listed is the maximum of all sticks together (TMI but in case it's not obvious to anyone, if it's a x4, a 16GB is gonna be 4GB sticks, four of them)

 

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21 minutes ago, Connorsponner01 said:

@=VG= SemlerPDX So you suggested 3600hz which I am looking for as well as at CL16, but do i look for Ram speed or SPD Speed

UPDATE: Found some ram, not sure if suitable, just tried looking for a pair at 3600hz but at roughly the same price as my already selected ram. Here

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1 hour ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said:

3rd party (AIB) cards are currently embroiled in a power delivery issue regarding choice of capacitor and capacitor arrays chosen by the AIB's which power the GPU - Gamers Nexus has an informative video on this subject.

Correction:  It was part of a long video (during a bike ride) on Gamers Nexus, but the video I was referring to was actually on JayzTwoCents, and here it is:
https://youtu.be/x6bUUEEe-X8

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Ram:

G.Skill - Trident Z Line-Up, Flare X, Sniper X, Performance(Budget Ram)

Klevv - ALL (Korean Brand)

TeamGroup - Delta RGB, Nighthawk RGB (not sure bout other models)

Corsair - Dominator (For standard Vengeance, do ensure that it is AMD compatible, NOT Intel compatible as they have 2 different set. If u purchase an Intel compatible, 40% chance for AMD system to work at stated speed); however for Vengeance RGB, may work on AMD as they don't have different set like their non rgb sibling

Adata - maybe all

Gigabyte - Majority of their SKUs uses Samsung B-Die (super expensive)

Patriot - not sure as not widely available in my country as there's no local distributor/supplier carry it

Kingston - maybe all (not 100% sure if the standard HyperX & Savage work for AMD or not. Their RGB line up do work)

Crucial - Never bother research as stocks not much readily available in my country

Geil - IDK (All I know their rams are kind of ugly for my own preference)

 

Might missed out some of the Brands as can't remember all of them.

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39 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

Ram:

G.Skill - Trident Z Line-Up, Flare X, Sniper X, Performance(Budget Ram)

Klevv - ALL (Korean Brand)

TeamGroup - Delta RGB, Nighthawk RGB (not sure bout other models)

Corsair - Dominator (For Vengeance, do ensure that it is AMD compatible, NOT Intel compatible as they have 2 different set. If u purchase an Intel compatible, 40% chance for AMD system to work at stated speed)

Adata - maybe all

Gigabyte - Majority of their SKUs uses Samsung B-Die (super expensive)

Patriot - not sure as not widely available in my country as there's no local distributor/supplier carry it

Kingston - maybe all (not 100% sure if the standard HyperX & Savage work for AMD or not. Their RGB line up do work)

Crucial - Never bother research as stocks not much readily available in my country

Geil - IDK (All I know their rams are kind of ugly for my own preference)

 

Might missed out some of the Brands as can't remember all of them.

https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232882 Went for this, you think its okAY?

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33 minutes ago, Connorsponner01 said:

Ripjaws V model is compatible for Ryzen. Forget to add that as too many Brands & models for me to remember.

But CL18. Hmm.... It's still doable

 

Just don't forget to X.M.P (it can be D.O.C.P, A.M.P or whatever the crap mb vendor named it) in the mb Bios for those ram if ur a beginner. Don't touch the Vcore (is it still Vcore for ram as well? Been awhile I manually OC new system). Let it be in 'AUTO' unless u know what ur doing.

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31 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

Ripjaws V model is compatible for Ryzen. Forget to add that as too many Brands & models for me to remember.

But CL18. Hmm.... It's still doable

I've been looking for some budget CL16-17 sticks but I can't. If you know of any let me know, would be helpful!

 

 

32 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

Just don't forget to X.M.P (it can be D.O.C.P, A.M.P or whatever the crap mb vendor named it) in the mb Bios for those ram if ur a beginner. Don't touch the Vcore (is it still Vcore for ram as well? Been awhile I manually OC new system). Let it be in 'AUTO' unless u know what ur doing.

As for all of this, I have no idea what any of it means haha. I assume it's a setting within the BIOS?

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Maybe spring for this $100 set?

G.SKILL	F4-3600C16D-16GVK	2133MHz	3600MHz	3600 MHz	Samsung	1.35v	SINGLE	8	√ | √ | √


https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232195

I know it's a bit higher in price... still browsing around a bit -- it is worth it to take your time... There are so many, and I know it seems daunting, but it pays off in the end... Fast Memory is as important as or even more than CPU cores and clock speed these days.  It is the difference between a good CPU and PC hardware combo working to the best of it's ability, and can often be the bottleneck if care is not taken to choose an affordable, fast performing set... And like Cruizer mentioned, enabling the mode that pushes the RAM out of it's default DDR4 speed of 2133MHz in the BIOS.

 

**EDIT:  crap... my bad, didn't realize I selected a "SINGLE" -- that means that these have NOT been validated as a 2-stick set, which is how they are sold from the link at Newegg... We are looking for something like that, validated as a "DOUBLE"... you get the idea.  Sorry for the mistake.

Edited by =VG= SemlerPDX
edit at *

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21 minutes ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said:

No, that model is NOT on the MoBo QVL

Also, like Cruizer mentioned, spend an extra $10 for CL16

I know it’s not on the QVL List but I was just gonna wing it and hope it works. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more on CL16 at all, it will be worth it in the end anyway. I will definitely keep looking around.

I am also a little stuck on what PSU to get. I don’t really care about getting a 80+ Bronze but from what you said it seems pretty important to get a Gold or higher. 

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2 hours ago, Connorsponner01 said:

I know it’s not on the QVL List but I was just gonna wing it and hope it works. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more on CL16 at all, it will be worth it in the end anyway. I will definitely keep looking around.

I am also a little stuck on what PSU to get. I don’t really care about getting a 80+ Bronze but from what you said it seems pretty important to get a Gold or higher. 

80+ Bronze should be sufficient for your budget build - but if you can get better, do it.  I tend to think about the future more, but there are always options.  The big thing is to not cheap out on the PSU with an unknown entry or something very low on the LTT PSU list.

I had to RMA my RAM  (lol) -- was lucky it was originally purchased through Amazon, and fulfilled by Amazon, so the return was painless.. that's not always the case, and best to not even have to deal with it - go with something from the list, it's a very long list... mine was by comparison shorter, with fewer options and I found a $100 set of CL16 3600MHz DDR4* tested for my chosen MoBo the second time around.  Just trying to save you from that.  You can do it, again, patience pays off.

*actually it's a 4x set of 8GB sticks from the QVL, for $200, but you get the idea... unvalidated 4000MHz patriot ram was nearly a waste of good money if not for the lucky RMA

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So far for the Ripjaws V model/SKU(maybe not all of them), i have no issue using it for some of my customer AMD system & able to make it work at the stated manufacturer frequency. But G.Skill Rams are slightly more pricier in the market. 

But if u want to be save, follow the QVL as some rams might not have been tested yet or already did but have not been updated in the QVL list yet.

For PSU, I will always recommend to get at least an 80+ Bronze due to the efficiency of the PSU. But if ur able to squeeze more & get an 80+ Silver or Gold rating, it is a nice addition. Don't really recommend 80+ only certified (this is mostly for super budget build or people that don't care bout psu & they just want cheap parts)

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3 hours ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said:

Just trying to save you from that.  You can do it, again, patience pays off.

Thanks, I will definitely keep looking the same with everything else. I don’t want to cheap out on this build too much as my main goal is to future proof it so I will try to aim higher. Besides that though I just need to find one at a decent price as well as allowing it to fit the case which is minimum 140mm I believe.

 

3 hours ago, Cruizer said:

For PSU, I will always recommend to get at least an 80+ Bronze due to the efficiency of the PSU. But if ur able to squeeze more & get an 80+ Silver or Gold rating, it is a nice addition. Don't really recommend 80+ only certified (this is mostly for super budget build or people that don't care bout psu & they just want cheap parts)

Yeah I definitely don’t want to go worse than Bronze that’s just silly. I haven’t found anything silver yet which is odd. Usually just goes from Bronze to Gold whenever I’m looking, but hopefully I can find something!

 

Edit: whilst in the topic of PSU, I’ve been looking for 750W only. Do you think it’s okay to drop to 700W MAYBE 650W (Don’t think I wanna go this low though)?

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Another Update: So regarding the PSU I think I found a decent one for now. It's the Corsair CXM V2 750WYes it's semi-modular, I am still looking around for a Modular PSU, but this one is looking promising atm, unless of course you guys see an issue!

As for ram, I found another pair that wasn't on the QVL list. but tbh the QVL list is starting to look less promising in terms of price. From what I've read it is very rare for unlisted items to NOT work because they either haven't updated the list OR they can only test so many. Still, I would love to hear what you think either way: Crucial Ballistix 3600hz CL16

Heres the updated PC Part Picker List

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1 hour ago, Connor said:

Hey guys! Heres my final build: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/ConnorH_/saved/VJ6mrH

CPU will be upgraded at some point and I will also be getting a: 1440p 144hz Monitor

Nice to see you finally found some decent validated 3600MHz DDR4!  Only note I have is that you are about to pair an AMD tailored gaming monitor with an Nvidia Graphics card.

Freesync = AMD (and open source)
G-sync = Nvidia (only)

You can find a monitor that is nearly exactly the same in size/resolution/performance, but G-sync compatible (or G-sync native) support, and at the same price, too.

AMDfreesync.PNG
3070gsync.PNG

Find the G-spot, young man... you'll be glad you did:
GsyncCompatible.PNG

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1 hour ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said:

Nice to see you finally found some decent validated 3600MHz DDR4!  Only note I have is that you are about to pair an AMD tailored gaming monitor with an Nvidia Graphics card.

Freesync = AMD (and open source)
G-sync = Nvidia (only)

You can find a monitor that is nearly exactly the same in size/resolution/performance, but G-sync compatible (or G-sync native) support, and at the same price, too.

AMDfreesync.PNG
3070gsync.PNG

Find the G-spot, young man... you'll be glad you did:
GsyncCompatible.PNG

Oh wow I didn’t even think of that, thanks! I will take a look around. 

 

Also, America is far cheaper man.... Parts over here are far more expensive and god this build costs more than expected haha, but I’ll scrape the money and it’ll be worth it

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1 hour ago, Cruizer said:

Alternative, u can find monitors with the word, 'Adaptive Sync' on it which means it do accept both Nvidia & Radeon GPUs

 

OR do this ---> Enable G-Sync on FreeSync Monitor

Man that's a relief. G-sync monitors are either very hard to find at the price I want or they're all just expensive. I think I will go with a FreeSync and transform to G-Sync. Thanks cruizer!

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5 minutes ago, Connor said:

Man that's a relief. G-sync monitors are either very hard to find at the price I want or they're all just expensive. I think I will go with a FreeSync and transform to G-Sync. Thanks cruizer!

Never buy G-Sync ONLY Monitor if ur on budget as the Monitor company has to pay premium to Nvidia for the G-Sync Badge which hike the cost of the monitors. Including the SLI Badge on motherboard

 

Nvidia being their usual Nvidia. Sucking money from royalties of having their badge being plastered anywhere that can be placed at.

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On 10/13/2020 at 11:19 PM, Cruizer said:

Never buy G-Sync ONLY Monitor if ur on budget

I dunno about this advice.  The Monitor is your main portal to gaming, and is the key component that your entire gaming computer is all about.  The PC drives frames to the Monitor, and the Monitor is the least frequently replaced part of the entire system.  While it's important to stick to a budget, it's also important to ignore a swing of $30-50 either way when it comes to finding the Gaming Monitor that you are looking for.  Sure, there are "methods" to get things to work in a non-standard and non-native manner... and those methods may work very well, or there may be issues.  Freesync *may* be configured to work for your Nvidia card, or you may have headaches and problems, and massive regret later.  As I keep driving this home, I'll do it again:  research pays off.

The latest Gsync technology is Gsync "Ultimate", and there is NO way that any Freesync Monitor in a modified method to work with an Nvidia card will approach the true native functionality on par with Gsync Ultimate.  Even Gsync "Compatible" is yesterday's tech.

Buy what you can afford, whatever works for you... but know that these "methods" are just that, and there is a reason for that "premium" charge when a company applies a proprietary technology to a monitor.  It's not just a sticker with an Nvidia badge on it -- it's the advanced post processing that all monitors do with additional processes from Nvidia for all these fancy new v-sync options that are above and beyond anything that has come before.  You might want to read up on what v-sync is, how it works, and how AMD (and FreeSync) and Nvidia (and Gsync) utilize the monitor's post processing to communicate with the GFX card to achieve sync with far greater performance and fewer negative drawbacks than back in the day when we only had simple "v-sync" options.

I would hate to be this guy:
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/geforce-graphics-cards/5/378836/problem-with-freesync-and-nvidia/?topicPage=1

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Since his under tight budget, so no choice unless pump in more cash to get a better monitor with G-Sync Only or Adaptive Sync OR drop/downgrade something else from the current list & re-route the amount towards the monitor cost.

 

There's pros & cons of having a tight budget since computer parts are not that cheap in certain countries thanks to VAT & etc that has been imposed.

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17 hours ago, Cruizer said:

There's pros & cons of having a tight budget since computer parts are not that cheap in certain countries thanks to VAT & etc that has been imposed.

Tru dat!  I use a 1080p at 144Hz, and it's from the generation of "Nvidia 3D Vision Ready"... before the wave of monitors that actually sync with the graphics card, as opposed to the other way around for previous "dumb" monitors and standard old v-sync.

I don't even use v-sync in a majority of games that might even benefit from it, just out of forgetfulness or lack of time setting things up proper, and the experience is not awful or else I'd have been spurred to actually re-set up such things now that I have a better PC and GFX card (on the same 2015 gaming monitor)... it's gonna come down to the user, too.  I'm merely coming from the forward-looking-back point of view, so Monitor first, paired with the desired graphics card that can drive it, on a Motherboard with the desired options and required support, and THEN choosing the sufficient CPU and RAM combo for such a board, and then choosing the appropriate Power Supply that can drive it, and then the fastest drive or combination of drives to be the brains and long term memory of the computer, expandable or easily upgradeable* later down the road.

*(I can run PCIe Gen 4 NVMe's but offerings slim, so I bought last gen NVMe's, with options for future if needed - I'm sure I could find somewhere else to make use of these Gen3 NVMe's, they wouldn't be wasted).

So I look from Monitor backwards through to storage, rather than from GFX card and CPU/MoBo/RAM, storage, then PSU, then Monitor.  Different strokes for different folks. :hi: 

 

edit:  P.S. Ideally, the storage would be the bottleneck of a system, where everything was able to function as fast as the data could be retrieved from storage, but that's not always the case.  I'm fine with my CPU being the bottleneck even, so long as it's sufficient to run the programs I want and the GFX card is powerful enough to drive the resolution and FPS range at high/ultra detail levels in game settings.  The worst case would be for the bottleneck to be the Monitor at a lower refresh rate, especially if also a very high resolution, if you're the type to favor PC gaming for it's far greater than console FPS ranges, like 80-240+ at high/ultra detail game settings, but I'm sure some of that is subjective - I'm not down for 4K until I'm running something as powerful as the new 3000 series Nvidia cards, cuz I'd not want to drop in-game settings just to achieve higher than 60FPS averages or even 5%/1% lows.  Just IMHO, I'm a high FPS, high details guy.

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