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=VG= SemlerPDX

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About =VG= SemlerPDX

  • Rank
    Major
  • Birthday 06/05/1979

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Interests
    Camping, hiking, shooting, and fast gaming computers
  • Occupation
    Scruffy looking Nerf Herder

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  • YouTube
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP3y9JOEWPTpcx6rOh3G7Tg

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  1. Over here... Turn around!

    Everybody hates the Airsoft Ghillie Sniper!
  2. This is quite a good ammount of kills

    Is that an average of one kill every 3 minutes for 2 hours straight? Day-um!
  3. veterans gaming integration

    Hello! Glad you're enjoying BMS! I wish we had less of a language barrier here, not sure that any of our pilots can speak Portuguese. In response to your question in TeamSpeak: I do not know of any live speech translator. I imagine there may be some devices like this, but they would be too expensive for consumers OR may be smartphone focused and therefore incompatible with TS3 or In-Game communications. We may live in the Star Trek age of technology here, but Uhura hasn't been replaced by a machine (yet)
  4. Hi There

    Welcome back! Best wishes and good luck with the retraining! See you around!
  5. Frame drops on kashan (not khamisiyah)

    Ooh - then it is a problem. Feel free to report to Stark58 if there is an unplayable broken map *(note the layer) that should be removed from rotation. No sense having to load and then skip a map and waste your time, just let us know.
  6. Frame drops on kashan (not khamisiyah)

    Interesting things to note, but definitely not worthy of fixing just for coop, if it is unintentional after all. A thing that discourages people from messing around in an uncappable enemy main? Can we get some more of that please?
  7. My DIY TrackIR "Wireless Rechargeable" Track Clip Pro mod *parts list with links at bottom I bought a Logitech G933 wireless headset last year and I'd like to make my TrackIR TrackClip Pro into a wireless unit as well. I need to be able to remove it from the G933 when not in use, TrackClip Pro's break if you look at them too hard, so taking it off is a primary requirement. I'll want to be able to recharge it with the same cord the G933 uses, too. I'm not a pro at this stuff, so any thing that works well and doesn't cost too much will be just fine with me. I know that if I ramp up the voltage from one single 3.7V battery, I can achieve 5V @ 1A for the 3 LED's on the TrackClip, and should retain a duration of more than 4 hours (overly hopeful estimate). I'll need to do some testing, if I have to, I'll use the second 3.7V battery like in the image here just for longer time between charges. The initial goals I had once I began were: Tiny form-factor, less than 5cm long, less than 2.5cm wide & tall Can power TrackClip for between 4-8 hours continuously Tiny on-off slider switch Rechargeable via micro-A USB female plugin Output to TrackClip via USB (type A) female outlet plug (as in picture above) Encased in semi-rigid form like shrink wrap, adapted plastic case, or custom 3D printed plastic case Velcro strap to easily mount on headphones Total cost for one single powerpack unit less than $10 USD Soldering leads to the TP4056 (03962A) Charging Board with Protection. This is the brains of this unit, and will make sure the rechargeable 3.7V battery will not discharge past 2.5V and will not recharge over 4.2V. It acts as the buffer between the battery and the voltage booster. Here is the 03962A Charging Board and battery holder wired to the MT3608 DC to DC Step Up Boost Converter. I did this for initial testing and to set the trim-pot (blue square box with round brass peg) on the boost converter from the 18V setting it shipped with to the 5V that I need. It will take the 3.7 Volt battery and step up its voltage to something usable by the TrackClip Pro without the need for a second battery. Trying to keep the size small, mounting the breakout boards close together makes it about the size of a stick of gum, plus the AAA sized battery. I put a USB female plug in for size reference along with the Bic lighter. The 10440 is a 3.7 Volt Lithium Ion rechargeable battery in a AAA size. According to a features sheet on a batteries info website, "Lighter weight and higher energy density than any other rechargeable battery". I'll be ramping up it's voltage to a full 5V. I used a portion of shrink wrap tubing around the 03962A Charging Board on the left, and MT3608 Boost Converter on the right is hot glued to the battery holder and to the 03962A in the middle. Through the shrink wrap I cut holes for the LED indicator lights on the charging board. The tiny switch has a pin through the breakout board and is soldered in place, with another pin bent and wrapped around the edge of the board, and soldered to it's wire (I didn't have red shrink wrap, but the thicker top right wire is the load line, and is red under there). Even with all of that, I just don't trust tiny switches to stay in place and solder is not structural, so it got a healthy dose from the hot glue gun. As you can see, I've used the highly skilled technique known as "just glob it on". I've cut the cord on the Track Clip Pro, spliced the wires to the Boost Converter, and used shrink wrap tubing to contain the entire unit. I've left a bit of the wire jacket hanging below the wires and hot glued in place, and then shrink wrapped under a little tension. This causes a slight bend in the wire, shown in these pics and it helps the unit bend the newly magnetic end inwards to the screw under this panel. A NetDot micro-USB magnetic adapter makes connecting a charging cable easy, and gives one end of my battery pack a strong magnet to work with. The NetDot magnetic charging adapter is so strong it is very well stuck to the screw on the corner of the G933 headset under the panel. It doesn't come off and swing around when I move my head around, and that's all that really matters to me. Function before looks. It's finally finished and working great! I expect it will last for a few years before I'll want to carve off the outer shrink wrap and replace the 10440 battery, and seal it back up with a new shrink wrap tube (and some new cut-outs for the switch and lights). Here's a cost breakdown: NetDot Magnetic Bi-Directional microUSB Plug Adapters https://www.amazon.com/NetDot-Generation-Magnetic-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B076QC2RQT/ $4 (per male/female adapter pair) TP4056 (03962A) Charging Board with Protection MT3608 DC to DC Step Up Boost Converter (in a pack with 3 of each board, plus 5 battery holders) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NHHCNNQ $1.00 per breakout board The battery holder I used was actually the AAA type: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C2XT5C5 $0.58 (one) 3.7V 10440 AAA Lithium Ion Rechargeable Battery (x4 @11.69 - w/Charger $19.09)*(note: these are NOT AAA batteries! They must be charged with a special charger, and shouldn't be used for normal AAA battery powered devices!) https://www.amazon.com/10440-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery-350mah/dp/B010ABNW5S/ (or) https://www.amazon.com/10440-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B06X9TZ1CG/ $2.92 / battery Tiny switch with nice long legs (they come in a pack of a hundred for six bucks): https://www.amazon.com/Cylewet-Vertical-Switch-Arduino-CYT1016/dp/B01N7NCW8N/ $0.06 (one) (Not taking into account things like hot glue sticks, solder, tape, or shrink wrap tubing segments used because they cost less than a few pennies) Total: $9.56 (USD) _________________________________ Looking back to the start, I've met my goals or caused some to become redundant (like velcro) and the cost for this single battery unit was less than $10, though I do have enough parts to make 2 more, I'm happy to put those in my Arduino projects bins and eat the costs there. This thing cost me about ten bucks, it works well, and I also have another $26 in extra parts (NetDot's and 3.7V batteries, battery holders, charging and boost breakout boards...). I learned a bit about larger shrink wrap tubing, it only shrinks so far. And I think it was all worth it. Had a flight earlier, with 8 minutes to taxi, I just got up out of my PC chair from a hot pit, and walked over to the fridge to get a soda all without taking off my headset or TrackClip Pro, strolling around while listening in to the Tower and waiting for my clearance to taxi. It was a feeling of true freedom! If anyone has any questions on this mod, I'd be happy to help if I can. See you at Angels 20!
  8. BMS 4.34 Release

    That's gonna change the SOP for sure...
  9. Waiting to fly

    Thanks man! Bad luck on the friendly fire. BMS isn't perfect, then again, a review of the ACMI if you have it might shed some light on what went down. I'll catch you online sometime and get in a flight, it's been awhile. I'm gonna do my "retraining" and getting familiar with BMS again in 4.33 just until the YAME64 update comes out for BMS 4.34 -- I never knew how much I relied on just one external monitor for my MFD's until I tried an Instant Action today without it. I'll be around and hang out, and can even host a flight (in 4.33) so hopefully people who fly BMS still have old version(s) installed. I have 3 versions of BMS all working great, 4.32 -- 4.33.5 -- and 4.34.0 now. I had some pretty sweet frame rates near a 100FPS, too, so if it's that high in Instant Action, I hope it remains pretty high in a busy campaign online.
  10. Waiting to fly

    I'm just getting 4.34 installed, and trying to get my Helios working again. A monitor got changed, and I kinda forgot how to config this so I have to relearn it. Side topic: Can we try to use the ZULU Clock on the front page instead of regional specifics like BST? (which is UTC/ZULU +1) The ZULU Clock on the home page is UTC and easy to get your own conversion for you (coincidentally, I see 20:00:17 right now and my Windows PC clock says 13:00, an easy 7 hour difference). If I wanted to say I'm going to be available to fly at around 19:00 here, I just add 7 to that and say to everyone in a post: "I'll be flying online at 02:00 ZULU if anyone would like to join" I added that ZULU Clock so we can more easily share our time without anyone worrying about international datelines, like for our Aussie friends and such, as it's just a matter of what that ZULU clock says and what your own watch or clock says, and the difference. When we get to dates far in the future, and international dateline issues arise, I've rigged our Calendar to display dates in our own personal time zone(s), so anyone looking at it will see the actual date and time the event will happen for them.
  11. Falcon 4.34 MP Joining Process

    I updated the page (and then updated the post above this one because my update broke that link ) Cheers!
  12. BMS 4.34 Release

    Yes.
  13. Hi, I'm Scott, Falcon BMS flyer, getting back in the saddle!

    Hello and welcome! Glad you found us okay! I still have to install 4.34 myself and get my controls all set up. I've been busy, but since I've been back I've put BMS off since I started working on my DIY wireless TrackIR Track Clip Pro. It's about done, so I guess I'm out of excuses Don't feel you need to read through the entire Dash 1 to be fully trained and combat ready. It would be wonderful in-depth information, but since it's a sim, you can get operational much sooner, and work towards that goal in the off-times. The Training Manual included in the Docs folder corresponds to each of the finished training missions, and will contain plenty of information and references to the Dash 1 and Dash 34 respectively. From there, you can read more in the specific section(s) you may be practicing on as a supplemental material. I can only imagine that reading through the Dash 1 cover to cover might be like reading the Bible in the same way -- better studied in sections with instruction, or more well said, better to digest the large volume of information in a structured curriculum as opposed to a binge read (or several binge read sessions). Of course, everyone learns differently, and you'll find what works best for you. I'll say that Air to Air refueling and Carrier Landing would be the far end of the difficulty spectrum, so even though they are mixed into the middle of the training missions, you may consider tackling these items towards the end of your training. Best wishes and good luck! See you around!
  14. Update on my DIY TrackIR project -
    Wireless TrackClip Pro has now been on for a several hours and the voltage on the battery has dropped by 0.40 Volts. If I do some very rough estimates, I am assuming this thing might last between 18-24 hours between charges. I'm leaving it on overnight to find out. The other connector for the magnetic micro USB charger tip is shown in this pic. They sell cords, or these tips that plug onto the end of a normal micro USB charging cable. They have a tiny green indicator light when powered. At $4 a piece (for a male and female pair of magnetic plugs) they are so worth it for the bi-directional connection option alone!

    $4.00 NetDot Magnetic USB Charging Connectors
    $2.92 3.7V 10440 AAA Lithium Ion Rechargeable Battery (sold in 4-pack for around $12)
    $1.00 TP4056 (03962A) Charging Board with Protection
    $1.00 MT3608 DC to DC Step Up Boost Converter
    __________________
    $8.92 Total Cost


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