=VG= SemlerPDX

This is an open public topic area for members of the VG Air Force, and non-members who may want to join can see our posts and activities here.   Discuss whatever you would like, plan group events using the Calendar, share important VG Air Force files or drop a screenshot from your latest flight on the VG BMS Server.  Everyone can see this stuff here, so show off the fun of multiplayer Falcon BMS, and the VG Air Force!

(was this locked on purpose @=VG= Sausag3 ? only asking cuz we just updated the website and I'm hunting for bugs or errors)

2 hours ago, =VG= ciro said:

["end1",true] remoteExecCall ['BIS_fnc_endMission',0];

or

["End1"] call BIS_fnc_endMission;

 HEY IT'S MY GOOD FRIEND CIRO!!! How you been?  The guys desperately need your help to make VG Arma cool once again!!  See you around, brother 

On 1/23/2021 at 8:11 AM, =VG= 0100011000101 said:

...i got some pics of volod ...

I've got a more recent pic from just the other day (volod pictured on the right) - he just couldn't learn to feed his bullets only to the bots (again)

show/hide

1 hour ago, SoldierOfMisfortune said:

Where is my homie Vic Vance

Apologies, I intentionally left out portable release & DLC playable main characters.  So, I guess for some folks it will be 'of these GTA games', which is your favorite?

Who is your favorite playable main character in GTA history (starting from GTA 3)?

Should base it off similar systems sold in your area (I did a brief search on Craigslist LA) -- you might want to start around $600 or so, give or take $100

Again, best practice is to use a brand new hard drive (~$50) and install windows/drivers from the CyberPower recovery media that came with that system - if it didn't come with anything, then just installing Windows 10 (and activating it with the Windows Key that came with the old system).
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07H2RR55Q

Very hard to sell a computer that is a couple generations old, and this one is just over two generations old.  So, anything over $400 recovered from this old system should be considered lucky.  Basically banking on someone who wants an affordable older generation entry level gaming computer in your area.  Not always a fast sale, and might have to lower price over the weeks if it doesn't sell and you don't want to keep listing it each week.

Colony on Duna maybe? 

10 minutes ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said:

ya and replacing that shit looks way to complicated thought it be easier. My PC working just LED on all my accessories just wont light. But they do for a second when I reboot, but then they go out again before the login splash screen appears. 

You still do Carbonite?  Just make sure everything is fully backed up moving forward with an unstable or misbehaving system.  I would hate for you to lose any data over this!  That's just tragic when it happens

Okay - what I mean is if this is just to test and get a few more days, and then resell this old computer when you buy a new one, then get a cheap replacement like this:
https://www.newegg.com/apevia-prestige-series-atx-rp800w/p/N82E16817148079

Otherwise, if you are trying to get more months (or a year) out of this PC, get a good PSU -- but not knowing IF the PSU is the problem is the factor here and could end up throwing good money on parts we are not sure are even the reason.

EDIT:  Also, if you are selling any old computer, take out the hard drive(s) and buy new cheap replacements, and sell it like that.  Never sell a computer with a hard drive in it which you have used.

1 minute ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said:

No nothing. Here is my current PSU 

• POWERSUPPLY: 800 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready

Might buy a new one before a new PC to see if this is the problem. Will this work? https://www.newegg.com/corsair-gaming-series-gs800-800w/p/N82E16817139025

Yes, that is a fine replacement - so long as it's in stock and less than (or around) $80

3 minutes ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said:

ugh thanks best buy can suck my dick no thanks. 

Yea, I think your PSU is dying or dead - inconsistent USB power, funky graphical effects - all that sounds like bad power.

also, yea, f best buy - they are the worst.  Good for only one of a few things, and that's about it.

*You'd have to take the PSU into Best Buy for testing - anything else would likely cost money.

1 minute ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said:

 Another question my pc just stopped working today. Initially my screen started blinking and fading out, then it would go black, then come back on but just rotate solid colors green, blue, red, everything else dead. I rebooted, changed my HDMI cable and that shit stopped, but now my USB ports seem dead because all the backlighting on my keyboard and joysticks won't light, and the LCD and LEDs on my keyboard are dead, but I can still type. Not sure wtf is going on but anyone have any ideas? 

Yea, sorry - I wanted to ask if you've had any blackouts or brown-outs in your area lately?  We had a few here and I was lucky to catch it and shut everything off real fast - those things can be killers for PSU's, especially older ones

That is the funkiest shit I've ever heard of and I'd worry about trying to boot without performing tests on the PSU first... I think Best Buy Geek Squad would do that for free if you played dumb like you were gonna buy a new one from them - they'd test it to see if it's bad/good, and you could leave knowing that was the issue.

Otherwise, if you want to save data already on your (now dead) computer, don't power it up until you know it's safe... you can still pull those hard drives and put them in a new computer you buy (if they don't get fried first)

7 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

BTW, Any idea what PSU Brand & model it will be? Hope it's not some half baked brand.

it will be. CyberPower will just use whatever they have - Corsair, EVGA - whatever is in stock and matching the stated spec.  On that note, I always base my PSU purchases off the PSU Hierarchy for the current year from LTT - here's a link if you'd like to better control the true quality of your PSU, because wattage ratings and name brands unfortunately are not "how" to choose -- you'd want something in the B tier, preferably B+
https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/

13 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

Liker per mentioned, not sure what type of 10% OC it will be done by CyberPower themselves. Right now it all depends on the 10% OC that is in the quote from CyberPower as it didn't really specify what OC that they will be doing.

It would be negligible - a swing of at most 50W I would assume - it is not the overclock that requires this 1000W power supply, but the GFX card.  Another consideration for choosing a higher wattage power supply is efficiency, and this does play in more when overclocking, though CyperPower won't be doing anything extreme as mentioned.

Here's a basic example from an 80+ Gold PSU - notice that under load, it is most efficient when usage is nearer to 50% of it's rated delivery:


This means that if we had a system that took 500W under full load, a 1000W 80+ Gold PSU would deliver around 90% efficiency -- but nearer to 100% load, or 20% load, that efficiency drops off.

23 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

Yup. I do notice it. 850W should still be sufficient as not sure what type of OC the CyberPower will be doing.

With respect and courtesy, I strongly disagree.  Even with the 80+ Gold certification, a PSU will only deliver around 80% of it's rated output under load.  An 850W PSU could be expected to deliver 680W dependably.  That is not sufficient for a GFX card which demands a crazy 500W and a CPU that (stock) takes 175W, and that's before the drives and fans and AIO pump and RGB puke (if any).

But don't take my word for it - here's a classic vid from JayzTwoCents on the subject, still perfectly relevant today:

6 minutes ago, Cruizer said:

Cuz 1000W kinda high ...

You did notice the 3080 right?  That's a 500W draw right there alone... before the 175W i9 (and subsequent overclocking by the system integrator CyberPower)... putting the power usage closer to 75% is best practice.

He's not doing any overclocking - they are.

Very cool -- some notes, tho:

Ditch the Sound Card (ASUS XONAR AE 7.1 Channel 192kHz/24-bit 110dB SNR PCIe Gaming Sound Card) and the Network Card (Intel EXPI9301CTBLK Network Adapter 10/ 100/ 1000Mbps PCI-Express)

For one thing, that Motherboard has a studio quality sound processor already, and a 2.5G integrated network chip that rivals most any add-in card, making both of these items redundant and a waste of money.  On top of that, they would take up PCIe slots which would force the speed of the slot your awesome Nvidia RTX 3080 is in to an 8x mode as opposed to a 16x mode (a very minor thing, barely applicable but worth noting, it's not "double the performance", just best practices)

Finally, unless that Mouse is free with this system, same with the keyboard, ditch them to save a small amount of money -- if you're looking to get a mouse, check out the Logitech G502* (or it's wireless cousin G502 Lightspeed - just don't buy the lame overpriced wireless Lightspeed charging pad, takes less than 2 hours to charge via cord, and lasts for a week or more on one charge)

*if you do need a new wired gaming mouse, I happen to have a new-in-box (never opened) Logitech G502 that I bought for like $40 when I thought mine was going out, but it stopped messing up, and a year later I bought the wireless G502 Lightspeed so just got this new wired G502 sitting around.  Let me know if you're interested.

Welcome back!  Finally getting more free time myself, getting all my controls set up again, and hoping to be on the server more regularly in 2021.  See you at Angels 20!

California - by Led Zepplin

(followed very closely by Classical Gas -- Tommy Emmanuel version) ...oh crap, that's against the rules isn't it?

27 minutes ago, silent guy said:

I keep getting kicked every time I try to join your server in PR CO-OP I'm not sure y but can someone pls help me,

thank you

Not sure what to post this under sorry if it under the wrong topic or forum.

Gee, I don't know silent... it's really hard to say why on Earth you could be getting kicked every time you try to join our server in PR CO-OP

Obviously, my first guess is that it has something to do with this:

Hold middle-mouse button (or mousewheel button) and move the mouse

First idea seems neat (though not the part about typing out a console command), but as for air-to-air reloading of CAS, I gotta agree with TEDF on that one.  CAS is way too OP already (and talking COOP here, not Deployment) where adding this extremely unrealistic and rather arcade video-gamey air-to-air rearm/repair would drastically change the balance of combined arms operations gameplay is it currently exists in PR (INF/ARMOR/TRANS/CAS) IMHO.

But above all, if any of these sorts of ideas are on the table for integration, they should at all costs be key commands and not involve typing - even if using something like AutoHotKey was required.  Just my opinion here, but the concept of typing out game actions makes me think of the days before 'graphics' - talking IBM x86 era.  Just sayin.

An event with special functions would certainly be the best place to try out something like this, and we're always down to host an event if someone puts in the time and effort to be it's 'show runner' as TEDF and others have done in the past.  That's how it works around here - but it's gotta be playable, and testing should be done prior to any event for stability and playability.

 You got some creative ideas, and some that are odd to some of us, but thank you for taking our constructive criticism with tact and grace, and understanding.