=VG= SemlerPDX

For me, ctrl+shft Q or E are NOT the ACRE Interaction menus. My guy just leans left or right as normal. Someone must know another default command. I cannot find the actual control listed under ACE Settings.

here, kilgore. This is my shortcut's paths. Snip out what you need, (remove the 4 core line if you dont have one...) and good luck! "C:\Program Files (x86)\Bohemia Interactive\ArmA 2\arma2oa.exe" -noSplash -noFilePatching -showScriptErrors -cpucount=4 -exThreads=7 -mod=;@CBA;@ACE;@JayArma2Lib;@ACRE;@ACEX;@ACEX_USNavy;@ACEX_RU;@JSRS-E;@JSRS-V;@JSRS-VW;@JSRS-W;@stmovement;@sthud"

The Right Windows button and Right App button on many keyboards (between right alt and right ctrl) will also act as the ACE Self Interaction and ACE Interaction menus. (For donning masks, handsignals, healing, etc.) EDIT: NOT to be confused with ACRE Interaction and ACRE Self Interaction Clav is describing. Sorry, Calv. ACE/ACRE training is a TMI overload, for sure! PUT THOSE EARPLUGS IN, PEOPLE!!!

NOTE: Your standard PUSH TO TALK button will be your radio "cue" button. Your TS3 PTT button will become your "local communication", like speaking out loud and it is 3D positional. You will not hear someone "talking" if you are more than 15 feet from them. This is where the Radios and their Ranges come in to pick up the load. You WILL be talking LOCALLY when using Radio, and any around you, friend or foe, will hear you as well - but, those on the same radio channel will hear you over that radio, range permitting. SETTING RADIOS TO MAX RANGE FOR THE AN/PRC's 148, 119, & 117: Here is your standard squad radio, the AN/PRC-343: It's range is not adjustable. All personel should carry this radio, and it will be on your person when you first enter an ACE/ACRE game. If not, grab one. It fills a Map/Compass gear slot. The two knobs on top are Channel on the left and Volume on the right. Left and Right mouse clicks adjust either up or down. There are 16 channels and the range on this radio is the smallest of all 4. Remeber, you can carry 2 radios at a time and each can be assigned to playback out of one, the other, or both ears. Press ctrl+shift Left, Right, or Up to set this for your current radio. It's recommended to set your AN/PRC-343 Squad Radio to your LEFT ear and your other (Command) Radio to your RIGHT ear. This way you can more easily differentiate who is transmitting and on what radio. If you are, say, squad 4, have your soldiers set 343 to channel 4, and you will not hear any other squad's chatter on the 343 - just your own. If you are KIA, some radio settings revert. Verify proper setup again before returning to action. COMMAND RADIOS: These radios all have adjustable range and are suitable for cross-squad communications and long distance transmission. Generally, only one person in a squad needs to have one of these, such as a squad leader or designated "radio man". You can use the radio on the "radio man's" back using the ACRE Interaction Menu, simulating real life radio usage in the field. Begin transmission stating who you are, who you are trying to contact, and ask for copy. Example: "Squad 4 to Squad 1, come in" then they should reply something like "Squad 4 this is Squad 1, copy (or go ahead)" - Now transmit your message ending with "Over" or "How Copy?". For training, you should become familiar with each of these. The AN/PRC-148: The 148 has a range of 5000 feet and fills a weapons slot in the Map/Compass area of your gear. Bring up your 148 by selecting it as your current radio (default: ctrl+shft C) then press view radio (default: ctrl+shft X). EDIT: Switch Radios button differ for different ACRE versions(example: crtl+shft A or S for ACRE 1.3.2) At the very top are the Channel knob on the left and Volume knob on the right. As with the 343, left click to increase, right click to decrease. Alternatively, the Up and Down arrow keys below MENU and SCAN also adjust channel. To set range, click MODE button 2 times. You will see Current (Range) 500 and New (Range) blinking. Click up or down arrow keys to change new range - 5000 MAX. Click ENT (Enter) to set and lock it. Follow the same procedure to check and adjust as needed. The AN/PRC-119: The 119 is a Soviet/Vietnam-Era radio. It is a backpack radio, and as such, can be packed with plenty of gear and equipment. It has 3 range settings and when inside a vehicle, a 4th. Change between 6 channels by clicking the CH knob at the top left. Below that knob is the RF PWR selector. Click this to set range to LO, Medium, or HI. When in a vehicle, set it to PA for maximum range. The SQ or Squelch knob is not modeled in the game, but is clickable. On the right side is the Volume knob, and above that is another selector that is not needed for your use (or not modeled). The AN/PRC-117: Here is the modern bad-boy of the portable VHF radio world. Like the 119, it is a backpack radio and can carry loads of items. It has a maximum range of 20,000 feet. The Volume + or - on the left is just that. The PRE + or - on the right is your Channel selector. There are 100 preset channels. To set maximum range, click the #8 (PGM) button and then click ENT (Enter). You will see the five settings modes, the first one blinking: FREQ CS DATA SQL POWER NAME Click the Left or Right arrow buttons untill POWER is blinking, then click the ENT (Enter) button. Now you will see a familiar display: CUR: 5000 NEW: 5000 Click the left or right arrow buttons to adjust NEW to max range (20,000), then press ENT (Enter). Like the 117, there is a special channel knob on the right - it's either not needed for standard use or not modeled in the game. Just leave it set to PT. FINAL NOTE: Backpacks are invaluable in the field, but the 119, and particularly the 117, have very large antennas and can give you away (to human players, at least). Remember, Shape/Shadow/Shine/Silhouette. Lastly, make sure you are mindful of your stamina. 40kg of gear is a managable weight, and I find I don't pass out too much. Listen for your heart beat and to your breathing, don't run all the time (especially up a grade or hill!) and sit down behind some cover to rest up fast. GOOD LUCK!

Make sure you remove the binding in game from PTT (push to talk) or you'll be double-com echo man. Of course, the beauty of ACRE is that you can set 3D positional clients in TS3 settings for directional sound, and with the radios (such as the 148 and 343) you can set which ear the radio transmits through by pressing shift or, for central, shift UP.

Not a fan of the PSU's that come bundled with cases. Just my 2 cents. And as a PC fixit guy, I've replaced more PSU's in box PC's (stock dell, hp, etc.) than any other part. IMO it's the most crucial part because of it's ability to fry everything.

lol...I threw it in the TS3 channel's file browser as well.

Way cool! Thanks! Don't it just make you shiver wondering what other keys and back doors they put in for themselves? I'm thoroughly convinced that there is a Gates button that will take over the entire net when he pushes it. And we will all be at "His" mercy...lol

Ok. It would cost $250+ to mail a 1" square chip to Russia from the US. Sorry, Outlanders. We tried. So, this item is up for sale again. Free shipping to continental US only this time....

Same. Downloading it now. A link to a good ACE instructions guide would be way cool...

Doesn't Laser Designator work for it as well? Or do I still have to tell the AI pilot to attack the Laz?

I haven't been on much lately, and my laptop is infected with something, making it hard to get anything written on the site here. Quick update, I've been going back and forth between doctors cuz my shoulders dislocate all the time and it sucks....bigtime. I get my best chill time in the woods with my cousin John, and that's right where I'm heading for my Birthday Weekend. It'll be a blast, but nothing like his 70th birthday bash is gonna be on the 3rd of July. We got people coming in from all over the country for that! I'll be back sometime next week, and hope to play with you all again soon! (And BLuDKLoT, Happy Belated Birthday to you, too!) Ol' Grizzly John:

don't forget mother's maiden name, too. !lol

Yea, this morning, it lagged like crazy. Here's a Server Load screenshot. Only 36 minutes into the game and 8FPS. We had many players, but weren't spread out too far. Mostly active on the map area you see, playing and shooting withing 1000m of the Main Base:

Withstand nuclear attack, sure. That's easy. Withstand the most abundant corrosive substance on the planet? I think not. Remember, few places on earth, even our own homes, are safe from this crap that can disolve any material on earth. And it looks like it has reached the aging missile launch facilities in Russia as well. Think twice next time you go to get a glass of deadly, deadly H2O. And don't spill it on anything, especially metal!!!

I think it's alien writing. Translation: "You're all screwed!"

Uh...Perhaps I should have said free shipping inside US. Was not thinking clearly. To Russia, Outlanders, may be a bit. Weight is about 10 ounces. Will look it up. What motherboard do you have? Don't wanna make the mistake I did a ways back. Not all 775 CPU's are compatible with all 775 MB's. And this one is 45nm die.

Intel Core 2 Duo E7600 ? 3.06 GHz (3 MB L2, 1066 MHz FSB) Socket 775 45nm; NEW IN BOX $70 OBO The fastest Core 2 Duo in the 1066MHz FSB speed. Built on 45nm technology, (pinless) socket 775 design. Retail - New In Box Found this little bugger in storage, almost forgot about it. I guess I won't be building a PC around it now that iCore's are the big thing. Still, someone may be able to make use of it. Money isn't really the issue, just want to get it to a good home. Free shipping, best offer is fine. I won't be insulted by low-ball offers. If you can use it in your computer, make me an offer & it's yours.

Thanks!

I love the idea of a persistant gaming map. I hope it isn't just a bug fest or pipe dream in the making...

Yes, Salvage. And in medium-powered PC's, it can really help load times and speed up multitasking. Awesome articles, PITN. Never seem graph forms, and it proves on paper the performance boosts. Yeah, not many gaming systems should consider this as the first or any speed upgrade. These are just the facts. I will add that on laptops, when gaming, this is a great boost! Laptops are limited in upgradability and this option opens up a "fourth wall". You can squeeze out the maximum potential of your current PC using this Readyboost ability when all other aspects are maxed out. A 12GB RAM system with dual video card's like PITN has, would have a hard time telling if a program loaded in 1/2 a second or 1/3 a second. Once you own a beast like that, little speed tweaks like Readyboost won't be so noticeable, in any big way. I found real visible benefit on my 4GB RAM laptop with 2 8GB USB's dedicated to Readyboost. It was THE difference in my (non-gaming) laptop's ability to load large or huge Civ V maps, and made texture pop-ups in GTA:IV nearly disappeared for me. To upgrade this laptop's RAM to MAX (8GB DDR3, 2x4GB) would cost over $250. Both the 8GB USB's were $20 and I can use them for data transfer as well as speed boosters. That's their job now as I only game on my PC, and have no open USB ports on it.

Here is the real skinny: There are a lot of misconceptions floating around about Readyboost and really seeing it's benefits. Based on all my reading and personal testing, I've come up with the facts on Readyboost. Begin with a device that has at least twice the amount of available space as you have RAM on your system. Be sure it has good Read/Write times, see Event ID 1000. Format it it to exFAT & dedicate it to Readyboost. Fill as many primary USB ports as possible/affordable with more of the same drives. If you have 2 open ports, for example, use 2 32GB sticks, one in each port, instead of just one 64GB stick in one. More pathways are better than one large data buffer. Readyboost speeds up you system by not letting it slow down. Interesting concept. The idea is that when an application is loaded, information required to run it is accessed from the hard drive. Most hard drives contain moving parts and cannot compare to the Read/Write times of a flash storage (solid-state) device. So, now we have Readyboost. It is not a PageFile drive, as you may hear, because it can be pulled out of the system at any time without causing problems. It functions similarly, but is more of a cache or data buffer on steroids. So how does it work? The true beauty of Readyboost lies in the way the OS compresses and writes/reads data from the device. Thanks to exFAT Formatting, I have been told that an 8GB USB memory stick dedicated to Readyboost is like a 16GB sand-table for the OS to work with. Imagine cruising down the streets of a GTA style 3D environment where buildings are popping up based on the computer's access time to the texture files, which is, in the end, limited even by a 7200-10000 RPM hard drive with a 64MB buffer. Window 7 can use a total of 256GB, and any number of devices to achieve that size, for Readyboost data buffering. Format that stick to exFAT! If you cannot, get one that can. The bits of data exchanged through ReadyBoost, much like a paging file, are much smaller than picture files and others files we are used to dealing with. The new exFAT format is THE format to use for your flash device when in ReadyBoost, as the new operating system(s) were designed with such data-transfer speeds and formats in mind. Price vs. Benefit In my opinion, the benefit per cost is higher here than even RAM upgrades, as you can max out your RAM one time before needing a better motherboard. It is true, you have to begin with the right USB device, not just your old jump-drive stick hanging on that lanyard. Read/write speeds are important and increase the price, of course. Luckily, price per size of stick is going down super fast, and 32-64GB sticks are within reach of the common gamer. Readyboost has a speed limit, so far: 5 milliseconds Read/ 3 milliseconds Write, I believe. This means current USB sticks with Read/Write times of ~4800/4300 are sufficient for the price. Also, try using memory cards in a PC or laptop's empty card reader to have an always present speed upgrade! Test the Speed of any Readyboost Capable Device: To see the event ID 1000 that shows the speed of any Readyboost device referenced above, in Windows 7, first connect the device and enable Readyboost for it. Now, press start and type "view event logs" (press enter). On the right, select "Create Custom View". Under "Logged:", select Last Hour (narrows the view, not exactly necessary for first timers) Click "By Source" and under "Event Source", click Readyboost and PRESS ENTER. Enter 1000 in "All Event IDs" and press OK. Give it a name and description or NOT and press OK. (it is not necessary unless you plan to return and check again - be sure to refresh if you do load a custom view, just to be sure you see all) Click an entry. The General tab will show the read/write speeds. The Details tab will also show free space, useful when testing multiple devices and knowing which one is which. If they are the same size, use the Date and Time to differentiate. BMS X52 Pro Falconeer pr0 file.zip

Xfire may not be as good, but you can at least capture some moments with it's video recorder while you continue troubleshooting your FRAPS problem. Most of mine went away when I bought the full version some time back.

Darn Graphics lock up and the hard-reboot that follows. Thought it was a stable graphics card overclock! Prime95 and Everest got nuthin' on PR and ArmA for benchmarking and testing.....grrrr! !butcher

Upgrade the current PC or buy a new one? What to choose....Been there, done that. Let me ease your mind and tell you that in this case, "throwing money" at the problem will help - to a degree, before you have to buy a whole new PC. So many of us remember a time when we first bought our computer, and lo and behold, it can play FPS games online! And with a decent ~25-35 frames per second! !2cool Then, some time later it just doesn't keep up with the new games, patches to old games, or whatever. Upgrading to a new PC will solve this problem, but small things still help, too. I know a few people who just recently reset their PC's (backup, re-install Windows, transfer back the backup) and BAM! !yahoo Back to the way it ran when first purchased. Always try this first. Crap builds up, digital and physical. A dust cleanup and re-install works wonders! And even small upgrades like the right video card, better cooling and dust control, or even faster hard drive(s) make a world of difference in our area of PC use. Keep in mind that few (current) games can fully take advantage of high amounts of RAM, or fully utilize more than a few processing cores. I can't say which CRASH or tech problem when playing bugs me most, cuz they just don't happen so much anymore, and I didn't spend a fortune to achieve it. Just a few parts in the right place. Just remember as you upgrade, be aware of performance bottlenecks. What good is the best processor if the hard drive(s) and RAM can't get the information to it at fast as the new CPU itself could operate? Or why more RAM when the old CPU couldn't handle data that fast anyway? !gamer My recipe for a good gaming experience: 1. Fast HDD or RAID for OS and/or Programs; maybe secondary drives for programs to run on. Simultaneous reads/writes from separate OS drive and Program drive = speed! 2. A little more RAM than needed for the game + the OS -Win7, give it 2GB RAM; for a big game, give it another 2GB RAM (so, you'll need a killer 32-bit sys with 4GB RAM, or 64-bit sys with at least 6-8GB of (ANY SPEED) DDR3 RAM. Anything else is overkill, except for upcoming titles, or ArmA2:OA.) 3. A Dual or Quad core (even pre-icore) processor -only for max Arma settings or maybe the upcoming BF3 will you truly need nex-gen processors for a great visual game. In Battlefield 2: Project Reality, a decent 2-4 core processor will never be your bottleneck. 4. A way to keep dust from piling up on RAM, FSB & CPU heatsinks, and Video card heatsinks. Perhaps HDD mounts right behind the main fan intake (nearly a standard now). You can really increase your PC health and even get more consistant speed with a non-stock case, one with good air-flow and filters you can simply vacuum from time to time. 5. IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT INTERNET CONNECTION: I called my internet service provider and asked why everyone has a DOCSYS-3 modem and I still have DOCSYS-2, paying the same price? They upgraded me for free, and at the same time, I chose to jump from the 8meg plan to 22meg plan - this could be part of it...I am always ALWAYS the first to be able to make a squad in PR on new map loads now.. !cmdo ..$25 more per month than basic internet so you get better connection to your favorite game? Is it worth it? I think so...we mostly all play all the time! !gam You're a gamer, admit it! So pay a tad more, if you can afford it, for true gaming speeds. 6. Manage those ports! Make sure your gaming PC (via MAC address or IP Ports) has PRIORITY over every other PC that connects through the WiFi router, and subsequently, the Modem itself. This way, no one downloading anything at the house will interfere with your online connection to the game. *Had to scour tech forums to learn how, and talk to Comcast tech support guys (the good ones); !lazy Yeah...it sucked...Couple of key words: QoS Packet Scheduling, UPnP, Port Forwarding/Triggering; but all hardware is different! 7. Video cards are not always what they seem! The card in the picture is an "ATI Radeon 5750", and sounds good 'till you look at it. I don't care if it says it has a 5700 series GPU or 1GB of "RAM" -- this is NOT what gamers refer to as a video card. It depends on SHARED RAM as well as it's onboard "1GB" of so-called VRAM. This is why NO gaming laptop can compare to a desktop running the same version GPU on a REAL graphics card, well before the case/heat issues come up in the argument. Not sure how they get away with that, but there are 3-4 "ballparks" that REAL video cards fall into. They are the $100-200 range, the $200-300 range, and the $300-750+ ranges. Place your money into a big brand-name card in one of these ranges for price vs. performance satisfaction. Names like Diamond, or Asus because BRAND NAMES MATTER with video cards! If you have room and power, use 2 less expensive cards in SLI/Crossfire instead of one VERY hot & fast ($400+) card. Also, don't worry about minor differences in the cards specs - new versions of cards come out on a MONTHLY basis, way too hard to keep up when trying to comparing one to another of the same price range/type. 8. FINALLY, if everything is perfect, and you still want more, get a good monitor with 120Hz Refresh Rate. These are the "3D" capable monitors cuz they sync 60 refreshes to each eye with the additional $200 3D glasses. But WITHOUT the glasses, both eyes see 120 refreshes per second and it LOOKS SMOOTH AS GRAVY!! !cool These monitors are in the $275-$350 price range to start, and I wish I could afford one!! Hope this helps someone, I know it would have helped me before all that time spent reading and messing around. If you can, off-load sound and NIC (internet) to a PCI(-e) card(s). Less for the MB/Primary CPU to deal with. These give minor 5-10 FPS increases, respectively. Good Luck!!