=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:20 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:20 PM Thoughts on this? CABLE: None CAS: CyberPowerPC NR640 High Air Flow Mid-Tower Gaming Case with Tempered Glass + 4x 120mm ARGB Fans [-2] (Black Color) CC: None COOLANT: None CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i9-10850K 10/20 3.60GHz [Turbo 5.1GHz] 20MB Cache LGA1200 [+30] CS_FAN: Default case fans ENGRAVING: None FAN: CyberPowerPC MasterLiquid Lite 120mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate FREEBIE_CU: Marvel Avengers Game [+0] HDD: 1TB WD Blue SN550 M.2 NVME SSD + 4TB SATA III Hard Drive Combo [+51] (Combo Drive) HDD2: None HEADSET: None IUSB: Built-in USB Ports (Based on motherboard and case selection) KEYBOARD: CyberPowerPC Multimedia USB Gaming Keyboard MEMORY: 32GB (8GBx4) DDR4/3000MHz Dual Channel Memory [+120] (Crucial Ballistix Sport) MICROPHONE: None MONITOR: None MOPAD: None MOTHERBOARD: MSI MPG Z490M GAMING EDGE WIFI 6, Micro ATX, ARGB, Intel 2.5GbE LAN, 2 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe [+35] MOUSE: CyberPowerPC Standard 4000 DPI with Weight System Optical Gaming Mouse NETWORK: Intel EXPI9301CTBLK Network Adapter 10/ 100/ 1000Mbps PCI-Express [+34] OS: Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition) OVERCLOCK: Pro OC (Performance Overclock 10% or more) POWERSUPPLY: 1,000 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Gold Power Supply PRO_WIRING: Professional Wiring for All WIRING Inside The System Chassis - Minimize Cable Exposure, Maximize Airflow in Your System [+19] PROMOSALE1: CYBERPOWERPC Skorpion K2 RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard [+9] (Blue (Clicky)) RUSH: 5% Instant Rebate on all orders over $999 for NO-RUSH Delivery, order will ship in 5 to 6 Weeks. Must Enter Coupon Code "NORUSH" during checkout. [+0] SERVICE: 3 Years FREE Service Plan (INCLUDES LABOR AND LIFETIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT) SLI_BRIDGE: None SOUND: ASUS XONAR AE 7.1 Channel 192kHz/24-bit 110dB SNR PCIe Gaming Sound Card [+82] SPEAKERS: None TUNING: None USBHD: None USBX: None VIDEO: GeForce RTX™ 3080 10GB GDDR6X (Ampere) [VR Ready] (Single Card) WARRANTY: STANDARD WARRANTY: 1 Year Parts WARRANTY WNC: None WTV: None Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:39 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:39 PM 12 minutes ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said: FAN: CyberPowerPC MasterLiquid Lite 120mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate Not a fan of 120mm AIO as from my point of view, it's more of an aesthetic. Would opt for Air Cooler if going for 120 AIO. Unless change to 240mm onwards AIO than it might be a different story. 14 minutes ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said: CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i9-10850K 10/20 3.60GHz [Turbo 5.1GHz] 20MB Cache LGA1200 [+30] MEMORY: 32GB (8GBx4) DDR4/3000MHz Dual Channel Memory [+120] (Crucial Ballistix Sport) MOTHERBOARD: MSI MPG Z490M GAMING EDGE WIFI 6, Micro ATX, ARGB, Intel 2.5GbE LAN, 2 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe [+35] OVERCLOCK: Pro OC (Performance Overclock 10% or more) POWERSUPPLY: 1,000 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Gold Power Supply VIDEO: GeForce RTX™ 3080 10GB GDDR6X (Ampere) [VR Ready] (Single Card) What type of overclocking? GPU+Ram+CPU OC? Cuz 1000W kinda high for just a cpu OC as never stated which I will highly guess this is the only OC that they will do & probably just X.M.P the ram to 3000MHz rather than pushing beyond it. For CPU OC, is it 10% of the frequency increase that will be OCed or 10% of gaming performance that they will test the crap out of that system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:43 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:43 PM Very cool -- some notes, tho: Ditch the Sound Card (ASUS XONAR AE 7.1 Channel 192kHz/24-bit 110dB SNR PCIe Gaming Sound Card) and the Network Card (Intel EXPI9301CTBLK Network Adapter 10/ 100/ 1000Mbps PCI-Express) For one thing, that Motherboard has a studio quality sound processor already, and a 2.5G integrated network chip that rivals most any add-in card, making both of these items redundant and a waste of money. On top of that, they would take up PCIe slots which would force the speed of the slot your awesome Nvidia RTX 3080 is in to an 8x mode as opposed to a 16x mode (a very minor thing, barely applicable but worth noting, it's not "double the performance", just best practices) Finally, unless that Mouse is free with this system, same with the keyboard, ditch them to save a small amount of money -- if you're looking to get a mouse, check out the Logitech G502* (or it's wireless cousin G502 Lightspeed - just don't buy the lame overpriced wireless Lightspeed charging pad, takes less than 2 hours to charge via cord, and lasts for a week or more on one charge) *if you do need a new wired gaming mouse, I happen to have a new-in-box (never opened) Logitech G502 that I bought for like $40 when I thought mine was going out, but it stopped messing up, and a year later I bought the wireless G502 Lightspeed so just got this new wired G502 sitting around. Let me know if you're interested. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:45 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:45 PM 6 minutes ago, Cruizer said: Cuz 1000W kinda high ... You did notice the 3080 right? That's a 500W draw right there alone... before the 175W i9 (and subsequent overclocking by the system integrator CyberPower)... putting the power usage closer to 75% is best practice. He's not doing any overclocking - they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:53 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:53 PM 15 minutes ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said: You did notice the 3080 right? That's a 500W draw right there alone... before the 175W i9 (and subsequent overclocking by the system integrator CyberPower)... putting the power usage closer to 75% is best practice. He's not doing any overclocking - they are. Yup. I do notice it. 850W should still be sufficient as not sure what type of OC the CyberPower will be doing. If let's say they will be doing a 10% increase in CPU Frequency, might need to ditch the 120 AIO as it will be ur next oven & will be back to the AMD FX Oven series. As the Intel i9 is now the new oven cpu untill they manage to drop to 10nm. Either get a good Air Cooler or get a 240 onwards AIO. But if they will be doing a 10% increase in ALL the CPU, GPU & Ram, yes, the 1000W PSU would do the trick as gpu once OCed futher will consume more wattage. But not sure how high can u go for GPU OC with just normal standard Air Cooler design (Unless go for Liquid Nitrogen) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:58 PM Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 07:58 PM Hey thanks guys. Another question my pc just stopped working today. Initially my screen started blinking and fading out, then it would go black, then come back on but just rotate solid colors green, blue, red, everything else dead. I rebooted, changed my HDMI cable and that shit stopped, but now my USB ports seem dead because all the backlighting on my keyboard and joysticks won't light, and the LCD and LEDs on my keyboard are dead, but I can still type. Not sure wtf is going on but anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:00 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:00 PM 23 minutes ago, Cruizer said: Yup. I do notice it. 850W should still be sufficient as not sure what type of OC the CyberPower will be doing. With respect and courtesy, I strongly disagree. Even with the 80+ Gold certification, a PSU will only deliver around 80% of it's rated output under load. An 850W PSU could be expected to deliver 680W dependably. That is not sufficient for a GFX card which demands a crazy 500W and a CPU that (stock) takes 175W, and that's before the drives and fans and AIO pump and RGB puke (if any). But don't take my word for it - here's a classic vid from JayzTwoCents on the subject, still perfectly relevant today: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:04 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:04 PM 2 minutes ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said: With respect and courtesy, I strongly disagree. Even with the 80+ Gold certification, a PSU will only deliver around 80% of it's rated output. An 850W PSU could be expected to deliver 680W dependably. That is not sufficient for a GFX card which demands a crazy 500W and a CPU that (stock) takes 175W, and that's before the drives and fans and AIO pump and RGB puke (if any). But don't take my word for it - here's a classic vid from JayzTwoCents on the subject, still perfectly relevant today: Liker per mentioned, not sure what type of 10% OC it will be done by CyberPower themselves. Right now it all depends on the 10% OC that is in the quote from CyberPower as it didn't really specify what OC that they will be doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:06 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:06 PM BTW, Any idea what PSU Brand & model it will be? Hope it's not some half baked brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:10 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:10 PM 13 minutes ago, Cruizer said: Liker per mentioned, not sure what type of 10% OC it will be done by CyberPower themselves. Right now it all depends on the 10% OC that is in the quote from CyberPower as it didn't really specify what OC that they will be doing. It would be negligible - a swing of at most 50W I would assume - it is not the overclock that requires this 1000W power supply, but the GFX card. Another consideration for choosing a higher wattage power supply is efficiency, and this does play in more when overclocking, though CyperPower won't be doing anything extreme as mentioned. Here's a basic example from an 80+ Gold PSU - notice that under load, it is most efficient when usage is nearer to 50% of it's rated delivery: This means that if we had a system that took 500W under full load, a 1000W 80+ Gold PSU would deliver around 90% efficiency -- but nearer to 100% load, or 20% load, that efficiency drops off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:12 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:12 PM 7 minutes ago, Cruizer said: BTW, Any idea what PSU Brand & model it will be? Hope it's not some half baked brand. it will be. CyberPower will just use whatever they have - Corsair, EVGA - whatever is in stock and matching the stated spec. On that note, I always base my PSU purchases off the PSU Hierarchy for the current year from LTT - here's a link if you'd like to better control the true quality of your PSU, because wattage ratings and name brands unfortunately are not "how" to choose -- you'd want something in the B tier, preferably B+https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:14 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:14 PM 2 minutes ago, =VG= SemlerPDX said: it will be. CyberPower will just use whatever they have - Corsair, EVGA - whatever is in stock and matching the stated spec. On that note, I always base my PSU purchases off the PSU Hierarchy for the current year from LTT - here's a link if you'd like to better control the true quality of your PSU, because ratings and name brands unfortunately are not "how" to choose -- you'd want something in the B tier, preferably B+https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/ I always pick Seasonic on my side when I quote as most of their PSU are the higher tier psu.. Unless the consumer have budget constraint, than will quote lower grade like Cooler Master MWE Bronze line-up or FSP Bronze Line-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:17 PM Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:17 PM Another question my pc just stopped working today. Initially my screen started blinking and fading out, then it would go black, then come back on but just rotate solid colors green, blue, red, everything else dead. I rebooted, changed my HDMI cable and that shit stopped, but now my USB ports seem dead because all the backlighting on my keyboard and joysticks won't light, and the LCD and LEDs on my keyboard are dead, but I can still type. Not sure wtf is going on but anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:21 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:21 PM 1 minute ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said: Another question my pc just stopped working today. Initially my screen started blinking and fading out, then it would go black, then come back on but just rotate solid colors green, blue, red, everything else dead. I rebooted, changed my HDMI cable and that shit stopped, but now my USB ports seem dead because all the backlighting on my keyboard and joysticks won't light, and the LCD and LEDs on my keyboard are dead, but I can still type. Not sure wtf is going on but anyone have any ideas? Yea, sorry - I wanted to ask if you've had any blackouts or brown-outs in your area lately? We had a few here and I was lucky to catch it and shut everything off real fast - those things can be killers for PSU's, especially older ones That is the funkiest shit I've ever heard of and I'd worry about trying to boot without performing tests on the PSU first... I think Best Buy Geek Squad would do that for free if you played dumb like you were gonna buy a new one from them - they'd test it to see if it's bad/good, and you could leave knowing that was the issue. Otherwise, if you want to save data already on your (now dead) computer, don't power it up until you know it's safe... you can still pull those hard drives and put them in a new computer you buy (if they don't get fried first) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:22 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:22 PM *You'd have to take the PSU into Best Buy for testing - anything else would likely cost money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:24 PM Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:24 PM ugh thanks best buy can suck my dick no thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:27 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:27 PM 3 minutes ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said: ugh thanks best buy can suck my dick no thanks. Yea, I think your PSU is dying or dead - inconsistent USB power, funky graphical effects - all that sounds like bad power. also, yea, f best buy - they are the worst. Good for only one of a few things, and that's about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:29 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:29 PM Do u have any PSU tester kit? But I would guess it's a no. Or can test it on other system that hardly been used / can become ur scapegoat (which I do have plenty on my side. Even my sis systems' are my scapegoat for parts testing) Good thing is that u all have those major big block retailers but over here, we do not have them. At most, we send it down to the relevant distributors to get them to check if consumer are not able to troubleshoot themselves as these ditros of ours have all the necessary equipment to do a full test on any of the products that they carry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:33 PM Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:33 PM No nothing. Here is my current PSU POWERSUPPLY: 800 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready Might buy a new one before a new PC to see if this is the problem. Will this work? https://www.newegg.com/corsair-gaming-series-gs800-800w/p/N82E16817139025 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:34 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:34 PM 1 minute ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said: No nothing. Here is my current PSU POWERSUPPLY: 800 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready Might buy a new one before a new PC to see if this is the problem. Will this work? https://www.newegg.com/corsair-gaming-series-gs800-800w/p/N82E16817139025 Yes, that is a fine replacement - so long as it's in stock and less than (or around) $80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:38 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:38 PM Okay - what I mean is if this is just to test and get a few more days, and then resell this old computer when you buy a new one, then get a cheap replacement like this:https://www.newegg.com/apevia-prestige-series-atx-rp800w/p/N82E16817148079 Otherwise, if you are trying to get more months (or a year) out of this PC, get a good PSU -- but not knowing IF the PSU is the problem is the factor here and could end up throwing good money on parts we are not sure are even the reason. EDIT: Also, if you are selling any old computer, take out the hard drive(s) and buy new cheap replacements, and sell it like that. Never sell a computer with a hard drive in it which you have used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:41 PM Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:41 PM ya and replacing that shit looks way to complicated thought it be easier. My PC working just LED on all my accessories just wont light. But they do for a second when I reboot, but then they go out again before the login splash screen appears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizer Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:41 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:41 PM Let's hope it's not a mb issue for the USB Port. As I do recall excessive current flow to USB Port which almost spoiled my spare mouse after doing a system build. Windows pop up notification & quickly unplug the USB from that port. The mouse almost malfunctioned (no lights, unable to move cursor but the Sensor is still running when plugged in) when test with my other system which suddenly somehow came back to live after a few days of testing that mouse. Might be similar cause of the so called under-current 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= SemlerPDX Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:53 PM Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 08:53 PM 10 minutes ago, =VG= BLuDKLoT said: ya and replacing that shit looks way to complicated thought it be easier. My PC working just LED on all my accessories just wont light. But they do for a second when I reboot, but then they go out again before the login splash screen appears. You still do Carbonite? Just make sure everything is fully backed up moving forward with an unstable or misbehaving system. I would hate for you to lose any data over this! That's just tragic when it happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=VG= BLuDKLoT Posted January 18, 2021 at 09:02 PM Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 at 09:02 PM No, no more carbonite but aint shit on this thing anyway everything I need is on the cloud. This just for gaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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